Coming to Harrisonburg

Just wanted to let folks know that I'll be in Harrisonburg June 24 - July 1. I've already contacted a few people about getting together, but if I haven't and you want to, email me. I'll go to Park View Mennonite Church on Sunday (June 29).

Looking forward to seeing people!

I'm in the US

Just wanted to let everyone know that I'm in the United States of America. I arrived Monday, May 26, Memorial Day. Anusha and I had a long but luckily uneventful and comfortable flight(s) to JFK airport where my sister picked us up. We spent the last week of May in Lansdale, PA at my friends home, where we recouped, went for walks and I even got a pedicure! On Thursday of that week, my mom drove out and hung out with Anusha and I as we took in festivities for another friends wedding, just outside of Philadelphia. Monday, June 2, we drove back with my mom to Goshen, where we spent the week trying to be helpful in preparation for a family reunion. This past week, Anusha and I, along with her grandmother Landis, aunt Carrie, Aunt Julie, uncle Marc and cousin Adria, were enjoying the cool, crisp weather of Grand Marais, Michigan. We just arrived back in Goshen where we'll be for the next week. This weekend is the Melvin and Esther Landis family reunion at our house.

I'll be in Harrisonburg the last week of June -- I'm hoping to get there around the 25th and will be there for 6 days.

I will be posting pictures and some more writings soon.

I hope to see folks in Harrisonburg. Be sure to email me and let me know when you'll be around!

And that cost how much?

I had been without internet since I got back to Nepalgunj because my cell phone was acting up. Then we got it fixed and our extension cord/converter was on the brink for a few days and we had to get that fixed. The good thing about this place is that you can pretty much get anything fixed. Example #1) Extension cords (which is also a converter meaning Nepali, European or American plugs can fit) – our iron blew both of them out and in “normal” circumstances, meaning “in the US,” I would have chucked them and bought a new one (albeit grudgingly). But not in Nepal! We took it to the place that we bought it and the guy proceeded to open it up, quickly repair a wire and add another 3 meters so it’s a nice long cord rather than only a foot!

Example #2) Cell phone: this seriously needs to be ditched, in all practical and annoying senses, but it costs a lot to buy a new cell phone. So, despite the fact that the card with all the information keeps on getting loose, the plug hole almost came out, and the phone itself is almost coming apart, 2 different cell phone places and Anuraj have attempted to fix this thing. Super glue to the rescue! Yes, super glue. And it's doing a decent job!

Other examples: my broken band from my wrist watch has been super glued 2 different times (we love superglue); my Birkenstocks are waiting patiently to be taken to one of the many random shoe repair guys (haven’t seen any ladies); the plumber came in and drilled 2 holes in our bathroom wall so we could get a water pipe in and out for our washing machine. Tailors of course can make or fix anything. And all of this costs? Usually less than $2.

Talk about cost; let’s go to the vegetable stand, where I go occasionally, but where our cook most often frequents. She brings back her receipts, meticulously showing me what she bought and how much it cost. The other day she brought back 1 kilo of tomatoes, 1 kilo of sag (i.e. spinach or kale or collard or the days leafy green special), 1 kilo of potatoes, 1 kilo of onions, some green chilies and okra. It was somewhere between 60 and 100 rupees which means $1-$2 for everything! When I converted it and it really regisitered in my mind, I was floored. What would she have done if I had told her all that would have cost $10-$15 in the US, at least? Fruit is a bit more expensive. A kilo of oranges, bananas or watermelon will cost you $1 easily (for each).

So, while cars here cost twice as much as they do in the US and Europe (the government posts a tax on new vehicles equivalent to the cost of the vehicle), vegetables are dirt cheap (pun not intended, but quite clever if I do say so myself)!!

Motorcycle Diaries

(Sunday, May 4, 2008)

A few years ago I thought it would be cool to ride on the back of a motorcycle for a long trip and write a book . . . about “life on the back of a motorbike,” or something to that effect. For those of you who are avid cycle riders (drivers or passengers), you know there is something special about riding motorcycle. The sensation of air on your skin as you can feel the temperature changes as you go from tops to bottoms of hills (at least in Virginia). For me, it just gives me time to observe, enjoy the full view, and think.

Sunday, Anuraj and I had a “date.” His coworker from Italy offered to watch Anusha for us so we could “do something.” “Let’s go on a motorcycle ride,” I chided. And we finally were able to borrow our landlady’s son’s little 250cc (which is what most of the bikes around here are). Anuraj had the helmet – as is the case with Nepali riders (driver with helmet, passenger(s) without). I had a bandana on to keep my hair from flying all over my face, which didn’t end up being a problem since we didn’t go faster than 40 or 45 mph! (Not because of the motorcycle, it’s simply the traffic!)

We left around 5:00 p.m. and stopped at a motorcycle repair place that repaired the loud and high screeching idle within 5 minutes for less than $1. (Refer to the post “that costs how much” . . . this would be another example of what can be repaired here in what time frame for what cost!) Got gas – which by the way, they filled up in a very efficient manner. (Let me paint the picture for you: The gas attendant stood at the pump while 2 or 3 motorcycles hovered right next to him. They opened up their tank, told him how much they needed. He filled it up, ½ liter for cycle #1, 3 liters for cycle #2, and 2 liters for us (all on the same meter reading). He turned it off the gas/meter, everyone paid, they drove off and the next three bikes cozied up for their refill.)

So we got our gas, then we took off. “Where do you want to go? I can take you to a place where there are landless people living? We were just there for work the other day? Do you want to go?” Anuraj asks me. Yes, I’m thinking, I want to go, but I want to ride. “Or do you want to go another time?” “Yes! . . . I want to get out of Nepalgunj.” Besides the times I’ve gone to Katmandu, I have not been out of Nepalgunj. With no Indian visa, I can’t go with Anuraj across the border, which is only 15 minutes away, for shopping. And, Anuraj is weary of the buses here. So, without a car, and unless we rent a car or a really good bus company starts running here, or unless we would do like some of those people were doing and ride bike (who would die first, Anusha or me), therefore, I haven’t left Nepalgunj proper!

We drive, down the straight, paved main road, and in 5 to 10 minutes we’re out of Nepalgunj. You can’t tell, really, like Pennsylvania, one town runs into the other. We drove for about 20 minutes and Anuraj tells me that we could take this motorcycle to one of the parks (i.e. Forests/national parks) and it would only take 2 hours to get there. My butt is already numb and I’m wondering how I would manage a 2 hour ride! Anyways, we finally get to an intersection where we can go east, north or west. We head east and we reach something I haven’t seen since I’ve gotten here: forest! Trees everywhere, with little trails poking out of them. We pull over and stop and I can hardly believe my ears. It is seriously more silent that I have experienced in a really long time. No vehicles, no lights, no houses, no hum of electricity or traffic or anything. And the forest was cool and smelled of fragrant fresh sprouts and shoots. “Anusha would love this,” I told Anuraj. It might take her back to our days of walking around in Park Woods in Harrisonburg, although even there it was not so silent.

After a few minutes, we headed back, exactly the way we came (minus a detour or two) and as I was riding, bareheaded (meaning no helmet – which by the way, I haven’t done for 10 years – the last time was in Florida where there is no helmet law), I was inspired. For the first time in weeks, I had ideas of what to write. So, what follows are some anecdotes, stories, thoughts, experiences. I’ve posted one other tonight and will post more in the next few days. Hopefully they will keep you entertained!

Pictures!

I'm happy to announce that I was able to upload (or download, whichever way it is) photos onto Picasa. You can view them by going to:

http://picasaweb.google.com/JillLandisJha/AnushaInNepalFebApr08?authkey=yHBbvWLh8D0

There were a number of pictures that I really wanted to get on there that didn't make it, shucks! I'm not sure when I'll have access to broadband again, but will be sure to upload or download more then. Hope you enjoy!

Leaving Katmandu

written Saturday, April 12, 2008

Just a note to say that we are heading back to Nepalgunj on Monday, after being in Katmandu for a month. Anuraj has been in Biratnagar since Wednesday and will return to Katmandu Sunday evening. He was there to vote and also to monitor the elections (for his job with UNMIN – United Nations Mission in Nepal). The elections themselves went well. Things leading up to the elections were a little rocky, with occasional bomb blasts, some killings and beatings and kidnappings of candidates and party members. The most shocking thing of all is that the Maoists are currently leading with about 80% of the votes. It will be interesting to see the final tally and see what begins to transpire.

Feeling at Home

written Sunday, April 6, 2008

Tonight I feel satisfied. I had a wonderful three days of visiting with Americans and I just had my favorite lentils overtop mashed potatoes (I can’t even tell you how tired I am right now of rice – thanks to Anuraj for suggesting I ask my sister in law to boil some potatoes for me to make some good ol’ mashed potatoes).

So, I got my social quota filled this weekend – and I got out of this little apartment, which was good since we will all be staying in for the most part next week. (Thursday, April 10 are the elections. Things are slowing down for this monumental week and hopefully there won’t be an increase in violence. There were already 4 socket bomb blasts in Katmandu this weekend! So it’s kind of a “go out only if you need to” type of time.)

On Friday I visited with Sandra Lapp. Her husband works for Mennonite Mission Network and their family is here for six months. Their place is beautiful! They had a huge back yard and a nice, large, sunlit house. This was a nice change from the two bedroom apartment and 10x5 plot of grass/garden at my sister in laws. (I had just been thinking that morning or the day before how much I wanted to see grass. And there, at the Lapp’s temporary residence, was a whole half acre of it!) She shared some freshly baked carrot cake, some lemon “squash” (juice) while we talked about life in Katmandu and Nepalgunj – power cuts, dirty water, getting sick and staying well, crowded streets. And how your perspective begins to change the longer you’re here and things that might have been difficult or unpleasant become bearable or even comfortable. I had lunch with her and her daughters and talked about their high schools and traveling along a cliff in a large Nepali bus. It was a most pleasant and refreshing time. (Oh, did I forget to mention Anusha, that’s because she was at home with my mother in law, also a nice treat!) I found a taxi and Anuraj told him over the phone how to take me back home. Thank goodness for a fluent and accessible husband!

On Saturday, the big accomplishment of the day was getting to and from a restaurant where I met a friend for lunch. Anuraj always chooses taxi drivers by looking at them, so I decided to do the same. For the ride there, I saw a man cleaning his taxi with a rag. A good sign, I thought – especially when some taxi drivers are smoking or sitting with a leg hanging out a window while they are waiting for passengers. He graciously took me right where I needed to go. His meter was accurate and he didn’t try to rip me off, so I gave him a decent tip, which he seemed quite grateful for. For lunch, I met up with a woman that I met at the Catholic Church the other week. She is a PhD candidate with John Hopkins University and is doing research here. It was nice to be with an American woman who is my age. We found a Chinese restaurant on the sixth floor of a complex. We hiked the six floors since, like most places I’ve been, the elevator did not work, and found that there were no other customers (I did not get sick, so it was a good choice, and the mini fried spring rolls were delicious). We talked about Nepali customs – like how the women don’t call their husbands by their names (my sister in law is a great example she always says, “Shubums’s father, their father, his father,”). We talked about Philly cheese steaks in Philadelphia (just thinking about it makes my mouth water, and there’s not many meat products that make my vegetarian mouth water anymore). And we talked about the random Mennonites and Mennonite places she knows – like Baltimore’s VS Asylum Seekers, and “Extending the Table” cookbook. On the way back, I choose my taxi based on the direction it was facing. I got in, told him where I needed to go (thanks to Anuraj, who told me just a few minutes before where exactly I was needing to go), and he said, “100 rupees.” “70 rupees” I protested, knowing good and well that the meter would read somewhere between 65 and 69 rupees if it was accurate. “80 rupees,” he said. I started opening the door – I may be foreigner who can’t speak Nepali but at least I know how much to pay for a taxi ride. That scared him enough for him to agree with me. As he started up the car, he said, “Meter?” “Yes,” I said, even though I don’t know why in the world we went through the hassle of bartering if he was going to turn the meter on! Anyways, it was a whole 67 rupees, so I gave him his 70 which we agreed on earlier – yes, a skimpy tip for trying to rip off the foreigner! (fyi, right now the exchange rate is about 65 rupees to US $1)

And today, was my visit with the MCC program directors for Nepal. They are an older couple who have been here since 1978. They had stints of being home in Canada for 3-6 months, and one time they were home for 3½ years; otherwise Nepal has been their home. They will be retiring and returning home in October, after turning everything over to new directors. I met Walton a few blocks away from his house. We walked past some store fronts, a “Ganesh Mandeera” (small temple about 5x5x5 devoted to the god Ganesh), and a school before we turned into a dirt alley. I followed him up to their 2nd floor apartment and greeted his wife Ruth who asked if I wanted “black tea or green tea” (you mean they sell something other than black tea here??). We visited over lunch – Walton told me about MCC’s work in Nepal, we talked about their family and what it will be like when they return home to people who don’t really understand (or care?) much what they’ve been doing the past 30 years. “Different people have different gifts,” Ruth said, recognizing that some people have the “gift” of living in Nepal for most of their lives, and some people have the “gift” of living in Canada. (That has been provocative for me to think about.) Most interesting was hearing about Ruth’s work with two different women artisan groups. The one group is a residence for seven former women “traffickers” (women who have been “trafficked” into other countries for prostitution). They study in the morning and do beadwork and knitting in the afternoons. The other group is for poor and marginalized women who also do beadwork. One of the groups is a supplier for SERV and they both have a variety of clientele, local and international, I think. Ruth, while her background is in nursing, has made a wonderful contribution, mostly in what she calls “quality control” (i.e. determining what size a scarf should be so that they are all consistent, etc.). I would have enjoyed talking to her more or gone with her to work. I am hoping that the next time Anuraj and I are both here, we can go over to visit them (with Anusha, they are missing their grandbaby). They have broadband and graciously allowed me to attempt to download pictures onto the internet. (This was somewhat successful – After an hour and a half of frustration, due to my computer, not the internet, I finally was able to download 45 semi-random pictures. I didn’t have time to organize and make captions for them – I asked my mom and sisters to do that for me, and 15 pictures that I was really excited for you to see, didn’t make it!)

I went home surprisingly refreshed. I was telling Anuraj about this, how comfortable it felt there. How much “at home” I felt. “Maybe it’s because they’re Mennonite,” he suggested. But the Lapp’s were Mennonite. And Walton and Ruth are from Canada, about 30 or 40 years older than me, and we didn’t really have any “connections,” besides MCC and being Mennonite. I was thinking about it later, curious about what it was that made me feel so at home.

- Maybe it was the simple lunch – the homemade bread that we used to make open face egg salad and tuna sandwiches, the carrot sticks, the delicious bran/raisin muffins and that green tea.
- Maybe it was the conversation, flowing and enjoyable.
- Maybe it was the fact that they left me to use their internet and do my own thing.
- Maybe it was the fact that they have lived in Nepal for 30 years and therefore really LIVE there. By that I mean, they had a full spice rack and lots of cookbooks, they had a Bible Commentary from the ‘70’s or ‘80’s and a collection of other books, they had family pictures and bulletin boards with notes and photos and photo cards from home. They had some Bible verses posted around and an MCC calendar hanging up. Basically, it didn’t seem like they had half of their belongings somewhere else – they had them all there, in their modest apartment in Nepal.
- Maybe it was the fact that I felt so at peace there. I looked out the window of their office and there, out the window, was green. It was a batch of trees. It took me a while to realize why that struck me. It’s because nice, green trees that are higher than the 2nd story of a house or apartment are so unusual to see. The trees filled the entire 4 panes of the window. I can’t even explain how wonderful that was to see.

Ultimately, I think it was the fact that I felt like I had just been at the home of one of my favorite couple’s from Harrisonburg – where I could always go for good company. And whose simple lunches were always satisfying. And who always made their home my home, letting me use this or borrow that. Whose house just feels peaceful to me; a place where I have always felt at home.

So, that was my weekend. It was good to get out and visit and make some new acquaintances and friends!