Motorcycle Diaries

(Sunday, May 4, 2008)

A few years ago I thought it would be cool to ride on the back of a motorcycle for a long trip and write a book . . . about “life on the back of a motorbike,” or something to that effect. For those of you who are avid cycle riders (drivers or passengers), you know there is something special about riding motorcycle. The sensation of air on your skin as you can feel the temperature changes as you go from tops to bottoms of hills (at least in Virginia). For me, it just gives me time to observe, enjoy the full view, and think.

Sunday, Anuraj and I had a “date.” His coworker from Italy offered to watch Anusha for us so we could “do something.” “Let’s go on a motorcycle ride,” I chided. And we finally were able to borrow our landlady’s son’s little 250cc (which is what most of the bikes around here are). Anuraj had the helmet – as is the case with Nepali riders (driver with helmet, passenger(s) without). I had a bandana on to keep my hair from flying all over my face, which didn’t end up being a problem since we didn’t go faster than 40 or 45 mph! (Not because of the motorcycle, it’s simply the traffic!)

We left around 5:00 p.m. and stopped at a motorcycle repair place that repaired the loud and high screeching idle within 5 minutes for less than $1. (Refer to the post “that costs how much” . . . this would be another example of what can be repaired here in what time frame for what cost!) Got gas – which by the way, they filled up in a very efficient manner. (Let me paint the picture for you: The gas attendant stood at the pump while 2 or 3 motorcycles hovered right next to him. They opened up their tank, told him how much they needed. He filled it up, ½ liter for cycle #1, 3 liters for cycle #2, and 2 liters for us (all on the same meter reading). He turned it off the gas/meter, everyone paid, they drove off and the next three bikes cozied up for their refill.)

So we got our gas, then we took off. “Where do you want to go? I can take you to a place where there are landless people living? We were just there for work the other day? Do you want to go?” Anuraj asks me. Yes, I’m thinking, I want to go, but I want to ride. “Or do you want to go another time?” “Yes! . . . I want to get out of Nepalgunj.” Besides the times I’ve gone to Katmandu, I have not been out of Nepalgunj. With no Indian visa, I can’t go with Anuraj across the border, which is only 15 minutes away, for shopping. And, Anuraj is weary of the buses here. So, without a car, and unless we rent a car or a really good bus company starts running here, or unless we would do like some of those people were doing and ride bike (who would die first, Anusha or me), therefore, I haven’t left Nepalgunj proper!

We drive, down the straight, paved main road, and in 5 to 10 minutes we’re out of Nepalgunj. You can’t tell, really, like Pennsylvania, one town runs into the other. We drove for about 20 minutes and Anuraj tells me that we could take this motorcycle to one of the parks (i.e. Forests/national parks) and it would only take 2 hours to get there. My butt is already numb and I’m wondering how I would manage a 2 hour ride! Anyways, we finally get to an intersection where we can go east, north or west. We head east and we reach something I haven’t seen since I’ve gotten here: forest! Trees everywhere, with little trails poking out of them. We pull over and stop and I can hardly believe my ears. It is seriously more silent that I have experienced in a really long time. No vehicles, no lights, no houses, no hum of electricity or traffic or anything. And the forest was cool and smelled of fragrant fresh sprouts and shoots. “Anusha would love this,” I told Anuraj. It might take her back to our days of walking around in Park Woods in Harrisonburg, although even there it was not so silent.

After a few minutes, we headed back, exactly the way we came (minus a detour or two) and as I was riding, bareheaded (meaning no helmet – which by the way, I haven’t done for 10 years – the last time was in Florida where there is no helmet law), I was inspired. For the first time in weeks, I had ideas of what to write. So, what follows are some anecdotes, stories, thoughts, experiences. I’ve posted one other tonight and will post more in the next few days. Hopefully they will keep you entertained!